The Ghost Town and the Gold Mine

We had been invited to Orcopampa by the pueblo’s Alcalde (Mayor) to look into establishing a project combating malnutrition in school aged children. The invitation coincided with the towns 123rd Anniversary of founding so the place was buzzing with activity. There were several media types from the national television and radio and some performers had been drafted in for the celebrations.

At 6:30 (yes, an hour after finally finding a bed) We went to the Alcade’s office to be welcomed along with some of the other guests. After breakfast one of the Alcade’s men, Jorge, took us around to see the area. The town of Orcopampa is basically built around the gold mine located just outside of the town. I asked Jorge if there was any other industry in the town and he said there was not. Nearly everything that came in and out of the town was linked in someway to the mine.




The village of Orcopampa is in a valley plateau, some 3’600 feet high in the Andes. The area is steeped in history extending far beyond the Orcopampa’s 123 years. Pre-Inca terraced fields climb the mountain sides and several colonial era churches are scattered through the valley in various states of disrepair. “Nothing grows here now.” Jorge tells us. The area used to be largely self sufficient, growing potatoes and other crops, but now there is no water and the area and the ground is dry. Most food must now be imported and the children, as well as their families are suffering from malnutrition. That’s we’re here.

We travel to a nearby village, “un pueblo fantasmo” Jose observes. A ghost town. A few houses lie clumped around the crumbling church although it’s difficult to know which are occupied and which have been abandoned. Many of the houses on the edge of the village are little more then roofless shells. We knock on one of the houses, there are clothes hanging in the court yard, presumably signs of life, but no one answers.



It would be easy to blame the areas woe’s on the mine, and very tempting to do so. The mine not only consumes vast quantities of water that would other wise mean that the people could be more self sufficient but contaminates the supply. However if it wasn’t for the mine would most of the people be there? Or would there be a scattering of smaller pueblo’s growing crops for their own consumption and living in isolation? Is this ‘Development’?

Many things in the town are financed by the mine. On the outskirts of the ghost town there was a project financed by the mine that was growing trees to local to the area to combat deforestation. Further along the road there was some kind of ‘research institute’ for horticulture and agriculture that had a few shambling green houses and a pen containing a couple of dozen Llamas.

As we entered a woman came out to meet us. She was young and when Jose addressed her as ‘Senorita’ (Miss) she corrected him. Jose asked how old she was as she seemed pretty young to be married. “Twenty –Three” she replied. She had been married since the age of fourteen and was mother to three children. As she spoke to us a toddler shambled out towards her. I considered asking if he was her eldest or youngest but said nothing. However two more children soon emerged the eldest looking at least nine or ten years of age.

We viewed a few more pueblos and another project financed by the mining corporation. This was “aquaculture” Davis informed me as I tried to make sense of the various tanks of water on the mountain ridge. I had first thought it was some kind of water purification facility but each tank was crowed with fish of different sizes.

We returned to Orcopampa and I was still trying to figure out my thoughts on the mining corporation. They did seem to be at least trying to give some support to the local settlements but I couldn’t help wonder that when the pueblo had a gold mine sitting on its doorstep there was nothing but dirt roads from the town hall to the highway 7 hours away.

The Road To Orcopampa

On the Thursday, my boss informed me that we would be travelling to a town about four hours away to see about seeing up a project. I was told to have my bag packed early as we would be leaving at 3pm.

At 7:30 there was an impatient beeping outside of the house as Jose rolled up in a pick-up truck driven by one of the guys from the village and his wife in the passenger seat. This meant that me, Jose, and Jose’s son, Davis were forced to pile into the back seat. Both of the chairs in the front were pushed back so there was next to no leg room. Davis had kindly let me sit in the middle and even before we set off I knew this was going to be a rough ride.

Initially we followed the main highway which was pretty packed with slow moving busses and HGVs that seemed to struggle up any incline. Fortunately after about two hours we turned off the main road. Unfortunately this was onto a single lane dirt track which ran through the Andes and was no less full of HGVs than the road we had just left.

It wasn’t long before I realised that Jose’s prediction of the journey had probably been taken from somewhere beyond the top of his head. I often struggle to sleep in transport, even airplanes, and so on a bumpy dirt track I wasn’t going to be in for much luck. Davis and Jose seemed to have little trouble. For much of the journey Jose’s head lolled forward and kept resting on my shoulder. This didn’t make me feel any more comfortable so I made sure that every time we went over a bump in the road I jolted my shoulder forward in order to discourage him.

At about 2am (six and a half hours into our four hour journey) The drive pulled over to the side of the road to take a nap. Pushing his chair back to feel recline, and meaning I had to squeeze my knees between the two front seat, he caught some shut eye for thirty minutes or so.

We arrived in Orcopampa at about 5:30, an hour or so after dawn. We were taken to a hostel where finally there was a bad to collapse into.

La Mansion: More about the Project

Just had a chat in the kitchen with Jerenie and Davis about some of the specifics for the project in La Mansion. I couldn't understand why a project was not taking place in the school since it so obviously benefited the students. Sadly it turns out to be corruption...allegedly. (Probably won't get sued for anything written here but best to be careful eh?)

The Project was run successfully for about 12 months however the school's director grew to dislike the project as he wasn't receiving a cut. Apparently he turned the staff against it until it was wound down in December of last year. The new project will have more freedom as it will be on a venue outside of the school. However I'm not sure how long the venue will be available for as I was with Jose the day he went around the pueblo looking for a potential venue and he told the owner it would only be used until December. Whether we can extend this date, or find another venue will have to be seen.

I also found more specifics out about the cost and the funding. The estimated cost for the food is about s/3, roughly 70p per child per day. I'm not sure how much the venue costs or how long the funds will last. I need to find these details out and also how to make the project more sustainable and then try and use this information to raise funds. There's a lot to do, but at least little by little, I'm increasing my understanding.